Old Delhi is both an awful and a fascinating place. Awful, because of the crowded streets, the density of traffic, dust, pollution and endless noise, making this urban environment at its worst an impossible place to enjoy a wander. Fascinating, because of its many shops, stalls and bazaars, its wonderful life which has disappeared for decades from western urban landscapes: the street workers, the density of its population, its lanes, colours, textures, smell of spices, the thousands of porters walking around, its secular culture and its attractive power. It took me some time to accept Old Delhi. But now I feel the need to come back and bathe myself in its ancient life, in its atypical and great mess.